Climb the first 2 bolts of "Mad Cat" but continue straight up.  Long pulls between positive pockets on excellent rock characterize the majority of this route.

I'd give this 4 stars, if it wasn't for some crunchy rock at the end - the rest of the route is really good.  Also felt pretty stiff for the grade.

Mudcat

Notorious T.U.F.

Mad Cat

Gliosis

Uncontrollable Urge

Keeps Me Out of Rusty's (KMOOR)

Mickey Mantle 2.0

Resisting the Raven

Still Not A Player

Resistance Is Futile

Together We're Too Strong

Zig Zag

Bob and Eric Crack

Rock The Spot

Dirt Pile

The Raven

Not only my new favorite crack in the Gorge but on my top ten list of favorite routes here.This would be a four star route if it were not for a bit of loose rock. PG rating for some questionable rock. Nice to have the belayer off to the side. That being said I did not knock anything off but I did climb it cautiously. Also there is no fixed anchor above this climb. Extra hand size gear for the anchor or belay from

Mad Cat

anchor 15' right.

Stem up a corner then move onto a face to a ledge. Continue up a steep face to a crux move to a large pinch. Finish up on fun lay-back & side-pull climbing, mixed with decent jamming.

Awesome route that follows a reversed

S

shaped line of mostly incut edges and pockets. The hardest move for me was getting to the first bolt. After that thoughtful movement leads to the technical crux mid way, then keeps you on your toes until after the last bolt. From there a bit runout to the anchor on slightly cruncy low angle rock.

(pockets that will accept gear are abundant though, I placed a .5 Tri-cam

) Other than the runout to the anchor the bolting is perfect on this thing. The anchor on top could use some loving and I would recommend rapping to save your rope. I give it 4 out of 5 stars.

Scramble up an easy groove (5.7) to a set of intermediate anchors. Continue up a dihedral, then continue up a blank-looking face.

An 70-meter rope will reach the ground from the anchors, otherwise 2 rappels.

From the belayer's anchor climb up (preferably on the left easier ground), then traverse right to a corner and the first bolt.  Head up to a ledge then up the right line of bolts.  I thought the crux (10a) was between the 7th bolt and the anchor, but getting to the 7th bolt could be of similar difficulty for shorter climbers.  At the 6th/7th bolt it is easier to climb on the right of the arete vs. coming around to the left (poor rock quality).

The bottom of this route is choss, but the middle and top have some fun moves.  In Marty's guide this route is called Uncontrollable Urge.

Step off a pedestal to the left of "Zig Zag", clip a bolt & make a funky move to gain the face above. Continue up a fun face to 1st set of anchors. (5.9, 60 feet)

Lower here, or continue up on a face with a small roof and higher anchors. Break up the pitches or bring 14 draws & lower off Mussys. (5.9, 55 feet

115' total

).

2 rappels or 70 meter rope REQUIRED from upper anchor.

From belay station, climb up a buttress to a steepening face. Techy crimping and edging gets you to the anchors. Well bolted.

A great combo of Brandon's Resistance is Futile and The Raven. If you want to do it in one pitch start on The Raven clipping the catastrophe bolt and the first bolt on the headwall of The Raven (alpine draws to reduce drag) then climb left along cracks to the start of Resistance. Your belayer won't be able to see you for the first couple of moves of R.I.F. and they are hard with a ledge not far away so make sure they have you close. After the 6th bolt of R.I.F. clip the perma-draw on The Raven and continue straight up to the anchor of The Raven.

Follow a nice line of pockets to a headwall of immaculate rock. There's no real crux move, but the building pump might get you.

The bottom is still a bit crunchy but will clean up with time and traffic - once clean, I think this will be one of the better routes in the Gorge.

Start with the first pitch of Keeps Me Out Of Rusty's or Zig Zag.

From the KMOOR anchor launch out right into the business.

Several different crux sections.  Big reaches to small but positive crimps, slabby footwork, some techy edging, a dynamic move to a big pocket, and some mental fortitude brings you to the optional anchor of Gliosis.  Continue past one more clip and easier climbing to the anchor atop the formation.  The rock quality diminishes on the final bit but it makes the cleaning simple and it's nice to truly summit.

With the belayer at the KMOOR anchor, the climber can be lowered to the ground with a 70m rope.

Awesome climbing.  Good rock.  I hope you enjoy.

Almost as good as it's neighbor to the left - another neoclassic. Start up a groove, to a break, then launch up the headwall. Spaced but good holds will lead you to a heartbreaker crux between the last bolt and the anchors.

Climb two short dihedrals split by a slab. The obvious "lightning-bolt" cracks below & left of the Diamond Face.

Recently retro-bolted, this is now a really fun 6-bolt 5.10a.

Climb past 2 bolts on a detached pillar, then head up the face on bullet rock through pockets and big edges.  The crux is transitioning onto the face from the top of the pillar and will be much easier for taller folks.

The name says it all.  Crunchy climbing on far less than stellar rock.  One may use this as a warm up (we did), but KMOOR would be a way better choice.

Begin in the 5.7 groove (same start as Gliosis). Look for a brown catastrophe bolt about 30 ft. up on the left in the smooth groove.  Continue up the groove to the lowest point of the Diamond Face where the real climbing starts.  Use long runners on the first 3 bolts to prevent rope drag up high.

The headwall is the business (obviously). The climbing is technical, powerful, sustained, and awesome!  Cool pockets and crimps, with several cruxes.

Straightforward climbing for the first few bolts on the headwall itself brings you to the first crux.  Navigate through this and several other cruxes, passing fixed draw #1.  Fixed draw #2 marks the point where you head left, crossing Resistance is Futile (1 shared bolt).  Sustained climbing leads to a redpoint crux near the top - don't let your guard down until you clip the anchor!

40m pitch!  Use an 80m rope or do 2 rappels with a shorter rope (several options).  When pulling the rope from the top, pull hard to the right to avoid the rope-snagging flake at the top of KMOR.

Draws can be pre-hung if you climb to the top of the face via Mickey Mantle and on to the anchor of Resistance is Futile (11c).

Grade is in the 5.13/13+ range - I'm going with 13+ for now.  Let me know what you think!

Description

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Routes in Diamond Face