Vagabonds

Vagmarken Buttress

Wind Tower

The Podium of Indecision

If you're looking for the longest climb on Vagmarken, this is the one.  Start just left of the Buttress prow in a crack dihedral the shoots a straight line up the central face of the rock.  Midway up you'll find a bolt and then moves slightly right to easier climing to the top.  Caution!  There is loose rock on this route; especially the large, tempting flake just by the move after the bolt.  To descend; scramble up to the top and head right to drop down the right side of the Buttress on some 3rd and 4th class terrain back to your gear.

Another excellent Bob Gaines line, well worth the somewhat arduous (by Joshua Tree standards) approach and descent. Start about 20 ft. up and left of the gully immediately left of The Podium of Indecision. The route goes pretty much up the center of the face. Get a couple of good pieces in down low, then climb a short bit of run-out face on positive holds (fun 5.6ish). The rest of the route has very adequate gear, following cracks and plentiful face holds up through a short steeper crux section, and then easier climbing past a ledge and on to the top.

Descent: There is a bolted anchor for a new route north of the top of this climb. A single rope rap gets you to the bottom. From there, scramble and walk down to the west and then back around left toward the road.

Unless you're planning to do other routes nearby, I'd recommend going "Joshua Tree alpine style" by leaving packs and other gear at the base of the rocky hillside below the route so as to avoid the need to hike back to the start of the climb.

This route is located on the left side of the left buttress, about 250' up and right from the intimidator rocks on a large slab.  This is a five-bolt route on the left side of the main face, just right of a gully.  If you traverse to the larger holds in the gully  on the left, the route is 5.7

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (b) Vagmarken Buttress Left