To the left of Lehamite Falls is this right-facing corner with a bit of wide and munge. Climb it if you must to hang a TR on Maps and Legends. Be very careful if you go up to the huge ledge for a recon...nasty loose blocks in the gulley and on ledges right above the route anchors.

Police State

The Wand

Knuckle Buster

Maps and Legends

I went lookin' for my own Butterballs or Pinky Paralysis and this one is as good as any in the Park. Down low there is a bit of a reach problem at a little roof that requires pulling on some flared locks up to a no hands rest (5.11 height dependent). After the no hands continue up to an overhanging off-fingers splitter (5.11) that will test your endurance to the bolted belay. As with Police State if you are tempted to recon above to the huge ledge beware of loose blocks right above the belay resting on sloping sand....But there is some potential up there.

Climb the first pitch of Knuckle Buster. From the belay traverse a puckering no pro dike (maybe 5.10-) that runs straight to the right and to the amazing crack of The Wand. The route only climbs from this dike above through a steep bit of splitter off-fingers to an anchor at a pinnacle (double rope rappel to ground) with most of the amazing thin crack still below. The lower crack has an extremely thin start that has not gone to my knowledge and is one of the most beautiful cracks in the Park.

This is a Valley Classic splitter finger crack. Not well known because it was not in the "select" guides but as good as any in the Park. Think "Mr. Natural" if a little shorter.

Hiking along the base after the ladder adventure approach you will notice this route starting from a sloping ledge and a maple tree. Patiently work in some wires then fire some thin locks to where the crack opens up a bit. Sustained but lowish angle fingers from there to a fixed anchor (bolts). Modern sticky shoes that work in thin cracks make this easier than the original 5.10d rating, imo.

A perfect splitter as good as any in the park and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. A Chris Falkenstein (Author of Tuolumne Guide) classic.

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Routes in Lehamite Falls