The Pyramid Expedition II 5.10. An unusual trip if the summit of the massive pyramid is reached. The climb up the 200' crack is the door to the top of a previously virgin rocky mesa about a mile in length, the end of which forms a very impressive Pyramid. The mesa lies about 15 mins to the north of Toviah Tower across the flat tree covered Secret Mesa.

From the campsite near the iron gate exit from I.70 and walk the half hour to Toviah Tower (see that description). Continue NW across the Secret Mesa to the obvious steep prow of the mesa on the skyline (15 mins). Go around the corner along a wide tree ledge to the prominent crack on the right and a view of the distant peak of The Pyramid above the massive smooth rock walls.

P1) The first 30' past a bolt is difficult, and aid on a cam was used just below the bolt. After this a clean four inch crack is reached and 5.9+ offwidth cracks follow to the top of the ridge and natural belays. 200' 5.10 A0. Registry can.

P2) About a mile of hiking and 4th class along the ridge to the summit of the Pyramid. About halfway along a descent on the south side for about 150' to reach a groove with bushes has to be made to reach more easy ground. The summit is approached by some slabs on its south side. Great views.

Descent) Rap anchors are on the south side of the ridge, about 5 mins slightly to the left from  the top of the 200' pitch 1 crack. Scramble down an open slab/groove (cairn) for about 100' with a mini pyramid down to its left. Anchors are on the slab to the right above a 70' crack to the ground.

ALTERNATIVE route. We found this crack can be climbed at 5.7 for those who wish for an easier climb to the ridge and the 4th class scramble to the Pyramid summit.

First Ascent. Andy Ross, Paul Ross, Layne Potter. 14th Oct 2005

The Pyramid Expedition

Toviah Tower

Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+.

The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo.  Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite.  Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area.  Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing.

P1)   Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the rock.  Trend left above the tree to the foot of an open groove (drilled angle piton), and then up the groove to double anchors.190' 5.7+ R

P2)  Angle up left past a bolt at 20', and then left to the gray band of rock (bolt). Continue straight up past another bolt to the south summit ridge.  160' 5.8+ R

P3)  4th class up the ridge towards the summit until it steepens about 60' from the top.

P4)  Go right to a bush in a groove below a chimney just below the summit.  Up the slab and chimney to a fine summit(double anchors) and great views over the northern swell.  60' 5.4

Descent :- Rap the route. FA. Paul Ross Layne Potter 5th Sept 2005.

Description

Protection

Routes in Toviah Tower