CAUTION: The tree next to this wall is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall. 

  A super fun climb. A bit pumpy with exciting sections, great rests, and jugs hidden throughout. There maaaay even be a knee bar (or two) in there somewhere! You can pick out this route from the other two at Torture Chamber just from its cool deep juggy structures, worn out of the rock from erosion. That said, a fall here could easily cost you an injury with all sorts of great spots to sprang an ankle. However, the stances are great once you push through a set of moves and the protection is very well placed.  

  Go right after the 4th bolt; The 5th bolt is shared with the middle route (Boiled in Oil 5.11b). Lower off. 

  WATCH OUT: Leave a few directional draws in place if you plan to toprope this route. If you swing off of this route you can easily be injured by spinning and slamming into corners on other parts of the rock wall.

Stretch Rack

5.9 Wall

Guillotine

Boiled in Oil

In the West Gully, opposite the Torture Chamber and all its routes with rad names, it should be apparent that 5.9 Wall is an ideal warm up route before really bringing the pain. A fun route, 5.9 Wall has some cool features and good moves on it. The route earns its rating from a 5.9 crux after the first bolt. Rappel down. 

  This is one of the only toprope routes at Castle Rock. Before coming into the West Gully, go between trees and scramble onto the top of the buttress above 5.9 Wall. It may be a bit difficult to find from the top and/or uncomfortable to reach. Consider leaving a marker at the base of the climb or having your partner help you locate the anchors from below.

CAUTION: The tree next to this wall is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall. 

  Starts Right of the anchors, straight up along 4 bolts, then veers Left to open cold shuts. Lower off. 

  TIP: Leave a directional draw at the 4th bolt to avoid a swing if you plan to do some toproping.

CAUTION: The tree next to this wall is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall. 

  Far less featured than Stretch Rack 5.10b (much safer falls too). 4 bolts lead you straight up to open cold shuts at the anchor.  

  Start with smearing and a massive undercling. The first bolt is high enough that an injury is very likely if you fall before clipping. So, don't fall. If youre leading 11b you shouldn't have a problem with the first clip, but just do everyone a favor and stick-clip or take a good look at the moves before you start.  

  The crux can be identified from the ground, just after the 2nd bolt. Protection is at your waist for the hard moves, followed by bomber holds that run out to the 3rd bolt.

The West Gully has steep walls on either side. The routes here were set in the early 90s and are sportier than the moderate stuff at the base of Castle. It is reliably breezy or windy here, either providing a welcome cool off or numbing your fingers depending on time of year (we sometimes refer to it as the Wind Tunnel). Shade alternates from one wall to the other depending on time of day. 

  Facing down the gully, the Left side has one route called 5.9 Wall which is... well, a 5.9. A good warm up on colorful featured rock. It is topropable if you go between some trees and scramble up the buttress although the anchors may be a bit difficult to find from the top and/or uncomfortable to reach. 

  On the right side of the gully next to a tree is the Torture Chamber, with a 5.10b and two 11s sharing a pair of open cold shuts. A great challenge. You can toprope the 11s after leading the 10 if so desired. 

  CAUTION: The tree next to Torture Chamber is a hazard while lowering AND belaying. Lower carefully to avoid the sharp nubs of the trees removed limbs--they will leave bruises. And stand clear of the tree when belaying so that you arent pulled up through the sharp edges of the removed limbs during a lead fall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Gully