Either start up a short slab into a varied crack in a softer, left-facing dihedral to a ledge, or scramble up to the same ledge from the NE side of the tower and circumnavigate around to the SW side. From the ledge, finger/hand cracks lead through blocky rock to a fist/OW roof and up a long, undulating OW crack to the shoulder of the spire and a sloping ledge leading around the east face to an anchor. The rock throughout is pretty marginal, with many hollow flakes and blocks.

From the anchor (one bolt equalized with another bolt 4' higher), aid off the high bolt and mantle onto either shoulder of the summit proper. Both seem feasible, but the summit caprock is very blocky and dubious. There is a fixed blade in a horizontal crack on the N side of the summit that can assist lowering/downclimbing back to the high bolt and into the anchor. There is no actual summit anchor due to rock quality. It's a bit sketchy topping out, but not too bad thanks to the pin facilitating the retreat. It may be prudent to bring a hammer to assess/reset the pin.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Grunt