Starts a short distance uphill (left) from Double Double, below the left of two small roofs.

This was a fun route, and a bit "sporty".  The crux seemed to be about 2/3 the way to the top, just before gaining a hand crack.

Spring Honeymoon

Mini-Dike Overpass

Up, Jump, Spring

Family Affair

Southern California Drill Team

Gerrytromp

Millennial Proof

The Groove

I am not a bear! I am a marmot!

Bucket Drop

The Lizard Of Oz

Sesh

Boomerproof

Double Double

Joy Spring

Marmotromp

Joy Spring is another good mixed bolt / gear route on the west face of Spring Dome, just left of Spring Honeymoon.

Follow a fun 5.8 left facing flake as it arches left, climb up and past 3 bolts to fun cracks and a high, easy to miss 4th bolt directly below the anchor or head a little right to the Spring Honeymoon anchor.

Varied climbing with an exciting 5.9 friction section to the second bolt that will get your attention.

Start as for Double Double and Gerrytromp, but continue up the vertical crack until it ends. Make crux slab moves to first bolt. Continue on, clipping two more bolts and head towards vertical cracks above. Another short section of slab brings you to a wide crack which is followed to anchor / rap rings shared with Gerrytromp.

Very fun route!  Small holds and protection appear just as you really need them.  Starts just right of Spring Honeymoon, under the right of two small roofs.  You can set a bomber nut about 2/3 the way to the first (high) bolt.  The climbing is easy until the first bolt, and then becomes much more interesting, and better protected.

Climb the beautiful, featured black water streak right of Southern California Drill Team on knobs and edges past 4 bolts to a large depression. At the top of the depression clip a bolt and stem up to a left leaning crack. Climb the crack using cams to protect fun moves up to final slab moves to the anchor. Family Affair is mixed route which constitutes clipping bolts and placing traditional gear.

Really nice moderate route. Start as for Double Double, except that after pulling right around the corner and onto the sloping ledge, follow a line of widely spaced bolts straight up. There are ten bolts and the opportunity to place gear in a couple short cracks.

No surprises on this route, it is sustained 5.8 friction on great rock.

Start the same as Boomerproof up the short overhang, but after the first couple of bolts cut right on the obvious crack. Difficult to get established into the crack followed by a strenuous traverse protected by bomber mostly finger-sized cams. The angle eases and the difficulty drops dramatically, but the gear also begins to disappear as you head up the slab to the large ledge marking the finish of the route where you can build a natural anchor with a few hand-sized pieces.

Short  by fun hand/fist crack. The crack as well as the face on either side are well featured.

"Begin in an overhang to reach easier face with two bolts. Wander up through easier ground and build a belay on the ramping ledge."

Gymnastic off the deck. Clip the first bolt before setting off and have the belayer in a position to catch the initial whip. After the bolts, follow the dark water streak up to the large horizontal ledge to build the gear belay.

Follows easy slab, water grooves and solution holes to the top of the dome.

Fun route that starts in a short right-facing crack before 3 bolts on slab.

2 pitch route that starts to the left of Double Double. Start moves to the first bolt on the first pitch and the first bolt on the second pitch are the crux moves of the route.

If you think the route to the right is really a 10a, you should have no problem with this one. 10b?

This route offers fun, dynamic, and gymnastic moves on overhanging granite. It is well protected, approachable for the grade, and seems to be easier if you are tall.

Start on a left facing flake beneath the overhang, then, rather than continuing right along the crack, make a big move up and left onto a rail. Boulder your way up the steep face and stand up on the lip. Climb a short, fine quality, slab (5.7ish) up to a right-facing flake, pass several horizontal grooves, then run it out up the easy slab (5.5ish) to finish at a ledge with a horizontal crack where you can build an anchor.

The area is shaded in the morning before the sun comes around the dome, and in the afternoon the trees again offer shade.

Start beneath a left facing corner downhill (right) from Up Jump Spring.

P1: Climb the left facing corner for about 15 feet until you can move right onto a sloping ledge.  Clip the first bolt of Gerrytromp, and continue right.  Follow a horizontal crack until a vertical crack intersects it.  Follow the vertical hand crack to a gear-belay beneath a right facing corner.

P2: Layback up the corner as it curves and becomes a roof.  Pass the roof on the right, then follow easier terrain up and left to the the 4 bolt anchor at the top of Gerrytromp.

Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined into a 200ft rope stretcher, but you had better be ready for some rope drag . . .

Marmotromp follows a right facing, right arching 5.8 crack that is a blast to engaging, varied and sustained face climbing past bolts and intermittent cracks above.

It is easy to miss the 5th bolt and follow a nice line of holds and crack right to the Joy Spring anchor, although another 5.10a/b friction crux is found getting to the 5th bolt.  Lower angle climbing leads to an anchor 15 feet higher going straight up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spring Dome