Pull through an awkward start past the first bolt to a ledge. Easier climbing on good edges and sidepulls brings you to a shake at the 4th bolt.

The crux lies above and demands some fairly technical movement and a somewhat stressful fifth clip. Mantle and finish on a few feet of easy ground to the chains.

Aside from the start and the usual Black Cliffs contrivances (cracks on either side are off), this is a really good route.

Your Face Or Mine

In Your Face

Lights Out

Cat Face

Dog Face

Saving Face

Surf's Up

Max V

Bad Dog

Helios

Pizza Face

Good Dog

Energy Crisis

Buttface

Power Failure

Loss of Face

This is an excellent crack climb! Great jams and finger locks with decent stances for placing gear. If you come to this area this climb should be on your to-do list!

Enjoy the starting few easy moves to the first bolt, as they are the last you'll get.  Sustained stemming and crimping on small but positive edges are the norm for the rest of the way up the face/corner.

After you're nice and pumped from the small crimps on the first 2/3 of the route, the widely spaced jugs at the bulge may seem a bit harder to hang onto than they feel like they should.  Once on top of the bulge positive edges and pockets take you up the slightly more than vertical finishing face.

Stellar!

Starts out with easy stemming to the high first bolt, then goes left onto the arete for the rest of the way.  One hard move passing the first bolt is followed up with fun jug pulling for the next couple bolts.  After the third bolt the business begins, with fun crimps and sidepulls the rest of the way.

Climb the dihedral and face to an awkward mantle move. Make sure you're a solid 10 climber or you may not like this route.

Sustained technical climbing up an arete that is just featured enough to go.  Balancy climbing up the outside of the arete leads to a big move left to good jug.  After the jug the climbing gets thin, with several sidepulls and slopers and not much for feet.  Extremely fun!

This climb starts out easy with mediocre pro, then leads to a nice finger crack in a corner. Great pro and fun climbing once you make it to the crack.

Another great Face Canyon sport route. Fun stems and thin face moves up the column face on bullet-proof basalt. There is a thought-provoking crux sequence waiting up near the last bolt.

As usual, stay out of the crack left of the column for full value.

Good clips, spaced a little more comfortably than a lot of the other sport routes here. In my opinion, this would be a good first 11 lead.

Don't use the GOOD DOG crack or you're off route.

Excellent crack climb that is sustained and difficult for the grade.  Be prepared to jam, finger lock, stem, smear, and maybe employ a little magic to get to the top!  This climb starts from the top of a high ledge and not from the ground; it's a pity this isn't longer.

The first half of the route is sustained and technical. Make it to the fourth bolt and you're done with the route. Stick clip the first bolt.

Sustained crack climbing. Finish at Bad Dog chains.

Book states "one of best crack at the BC." Make sure you're solid 10 leader. If I remember right the feet weren't very solid.

This route is pretty straightforward, just climb the column using large positive edges.  I didn't notice any distinct crux, although the route was sustained.

Great crack, starts with fingertips and steadily opens up until the offwidth (crux) at top. Plug those boat anchors up top and go for it!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Face Canyon