GUYS AND DOLLS 5.8 ** 55' F(5b)

Begin as for Barbies but climb about 5' left of that route to the 2 ring anchors at the left end above the top ledge (a long cordelette may be wanted for toproping). Very nice sustained climbing, and maybe even a touch better than Barbies, although maybe soft for the grade.

Guys and Dolls

Barbies are Buddhas Too

Out of Mind

Newton Pippin

Near Horizon

All Quiet on Western Front

Ribston Pippin

Out of Sight

Northern Spy

Pip Squeak

Lemonaid

Send in the Clowns

Tenacious D

Zero Point

Toss of a Lemon

Mellow Yellow

SEND IN THE CLOWNS 5.7 * 60' M(3b)

From the lowest point on the left side of the "Barbies..." face climb up the crack to share the 2 ring anchors above the top ledge with Guys and Dolls. Needs an assortment of small to medium nuts. A long cordelette may be wanted for toproping.

Note; this route is prone to getting dirty seasonal runoff from the slope above.

OUT OF MIND 5.11a * (75') F (8b)

Start 10' right of OUT OF SIGHT (just left of the huge semidetached column/arch) and follow the bolts up the right side of the face to share the top anchors with the other route (bolts above the crux are hidden and a directional top bolt is to the right of the top ring anchors).  A hard middle (overhang) section makes the easier start and finish worth doing.

NEAR HORIZON 5.10c * 75' F (6b)

Begin behind the small fir tree (10' left of OUT OF SIGHT), and climb left of the overhangs (cold shut anchors above). A bouldery start, somewhat hollow middle and a final move crux make for an interesting and challenging climb.

RIBSTON PIPPIN 5.8 ** 60' M (4b)

Begin 5' right of NEWTOWN PIPPIN and climb directly up the right edge of the pocketed face (following the brown bolts) to the cold shut anchors on the right (below the Serviceberry clump). Several small to medium cams are needed to protect the start of this fun, sustained and challenging route.

OUT OF SIGHT 5.11a ** 75' F (7b)

Start behind the fir tree at the far NW end of Burge. Climb the middle of the steep face through the initial overhang, continue up the slab, through the middle overhang (crux), and traverse right above to climb the final headwall to the 2 bolt anchors on top. Excellent climbing on surprisingly good rock (that stays dry in a light rain, and shaded till mid afternoon).

NORTHERN SPY 5.9- ** 70' F (8b)

Start as for Newtown Pippin and climb the left side of the face (may want to clip the first bolt on Newtown P.) - avoiding any holds on that route, or stemming or resting off the face to the left  to the same top anchors. Very good, sustained and interesting climbing, although a bit challenging and contrived staying on route.

PIP SQUEAK 5.7+ * 60' M (4b)

Begin as for RIBSTON PIPPIN (shares the first gear placement), then step right and follow the black bolts up the face and inside corner right of the arête, step right again at the top of the corner under the roof to ascend the right edge, and on to share the top anchors with RIBSTON PIPPIN.

LEMONAID 5.9-/A0 * 65' F(7b)

Begin 10' right of TOSS OF A LEMON, and climb directly up the face (through the initial broken lower band to the better middle arete and upper face sections). The use of a stirrup sling is needed to get past a short blank section on the upper face to the set of chain anchors on top. It is probably possible to free the upper section at 11+/12-....

TENACIOUS D - 5.10d * (50') F (6b)

At the farthest left end of the Lower Western Front (about 10' up and left of ZERO POINT), begin at the top of the rocky rib and climb directly up to the 2 ring anchors just over the lip. After the easy start (to the first big ledge) this route although short is strenuous and sustained.

ZERO POINT 5.10a ** 65' F (7b)

At the far left end of the cliff, begin slightly uphill and about 15' left of NEAR HORIZON (at the base of the rock rib), and climb progressively harder moves directly up the face to the high crux finish. Directional bolt is over the top ledge. Shares the same cold shut anchors (10' up and right) as NEAR HORZON. This is a short but fun, sustained and consistently good climb.

TOSS OF A LEMON 5.10a * 60' F (6b)

On the short face just around the corner and right of the precarious arch, mount the initial overhang (short crux) and climb directly up to the cold shut anchors. Short, but very nice climbing.

MELLOW YELLOW 5.11? * 60' M (6b)

Begin about 5' right of TOSS OF A LEMON and climb the initial broken section to the inside corner. At the Mock Orange bush mantle up to the left to follow the bolts up the face above through progressively harder moves to the crux finish. Shares the chain anchors on top with LEMONAID. Several small to medium cams and nuts are needed on the lower and middle sections.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Wall