Nice shady afternoon route so you can dress for success in this wide hands to squeeze chimney. Protection is way in the back of the chimney but you need a long sling to squirm outside instead. 

Walkin the Pawg

El Zopi

Mike's Crack

Seven After Quasimodo

Hard Day's Work

"5.8 hand crack"

Blinky

Inky

Pinky

Likes and Views

Unkown 5.8

Vanilla Pudding

Mannventure

The Hippie Flip

Getting to the route is tricky. First, get to the base of the 5.8 Hand Crack. From here look east and climb the bulge to the top of the rock formation (next time I come I will leave a short rope to make it easier to get to the top). At the top, you will find 2 bolts that you will use to rappel down to the start of the route. Potentially you could walk up to the base of the route but I would not recommend that as the approach will likely suck, plus you want to do the beautiful 5.8 Hand crack anyway. Rap directly east onto a boulder at the base of the route and start climbing from there. The route has 2 cruxes: the first and last moves. In between, you get a nice and easy off-width crack. 

The crux is the start. After that is sustained at the grade with good pro. 

Starting is tough then it gets harder. Then you finish on a widening crack. I don't remember who put the bolt in.

The hardest part was the first pitch, a horizontal adventure. The second pitch was hard too though.

Getting off the ground is hard for me. Then it eases off near the wider hands section.

There is a steep section at the start to get going, but then it backs off a touch for the rest of the climb.  I thought it was sustained for the grade varying between bomber hands and tight hands mostly.  Clean rock and relatively shady in the afternoon.

Great hand crack that widens a little towards the top. You will only wish it was longer. 

Overhanging tight hands that widens at the top. Cruxy move at the start. 

Technical crack with a small layback section followed by an off width section that is easy if you pay attention to footholds. 

Climb the flake system passing a single bolt in the middle and finishing at the anchor for Hard Day's Work. Probably best to belay from the top due to a sharp edge just before the anchor.Don't know the name or FA for this so if you do let me know and I'll update it.

Starting the route is probably the crux. At the bottom begin on left side of block, difficult moves get you onto the base of the squeeze chimney.

Near the center of the line it gets steeper and the crack goes from fist to wider a bit.

A steep and leaning offwidth splitting a boulder that involves some trickery to get up.  A single bolt anchor waits up top.

This complex of boulders and domes sits on top of a hill just southeast of the end of the road. Make your way past the hilltop and walk back to the south end of the formation for most climbs. A really cool climb is located on the NE side, Mike's Crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hippy Dome