Pitch 1. Follow 4 bolts to ledge, clip bolt 5 (24 inch runner), and traverse right to the start of a fun crack (#3 cam; 24 inch runner). Follow the crack left to its end, and climb the slab above via 3 bolts to the anchor, 5.8.

Pitch 2. Climb the beautiful slab out right via 4 bolts to the anchor, 50 feet, 5.7.

American Spirit

Pipsqueak

Bali Shag

Sweet Cigarillo

Emphysema

Zig-zag

Bugler Arete

This has long, sustained slab climbing with a lot of bolts. Either start from the lowest point or traverse the ledge to the ring bolt next to small tree.

In case you run out of things to do, this is a fun, little slab that you can wander around on TR from anchors below the start of

Sweet Cigarillo

.

This is another fun slab with exposed arete climbing and a finger crack thrown in for good measure.

Climb past a lone bolt to the ledge, mantel onto the main face, and continue up increasingly thinner holds. Utilize the arete, and at bolt 9, transition right into the enjoyable finger crack; manteling onto a ledge and following 2 more bolts to the chains.

A 70m rope gets you back down, watch your ends.

Sweet Cigarillo is a fun, classy, and moderate 2 pitch outing up the center of the Upper Smoking Section Formation.

P1. 5.8, 115'

. Wander up the slab on friction climbing past some interesting features. Use some shoulder length slings on the bolts in the middle of the pitch to alleviate some of the drag. Pull on to a ledge with 2 bolt belay, 11 bolts.

P2. 5.6, 115'

. EDIT 2018: the original FA traversed the roof with gear, but now the pitch climbs above the belay and up to the roof with only bolts. Mantel the roof, and romp up easy slabs past a few more bolts to 2 bolt belay on a ledge, 8 bolts.

Have a picnic at a grassy bench at the top.

Do two raps down with one 70m rope. Watch your ends!

Pitch 1. 5.8. Start at the lowest point of the rock. Find a high first bolt, follow bolts up then right to a hand crack, then follow the hand crack about 30 feet to another bolt that leads out and right to a ledge by a bush, 170 feet, 8 bolts, a light rack, 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. 5.8. You will want long runners on everything for this pitch. Climb the face past a bolt and into a corner that goes sharply to the right when the corner turns find a bolt on the upper face. Step up to the higher corner and continue to the right. At the next bolt pull up into an alcove, you can belay here with 1 bolt and gear or traverse about 30 feet left to an anchor, 160 feet, 5 bolts, a light rack, 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3. 5.7. Climb the face and corner to a ledge on the left at the top of the formation, 130 feet, 3 bolts, a light rack, 2 bolt anchor.

From the top, you are about 200 feet from the start of

Anasazi Arete

, or rappel the 3rd pitch with double ropes, pitch 2 90 feet, pitch 1 110 feet into a gully.

Pitch 1. Climb the left side of the blunt arete to a bolted stance below a splitter crack.

Pitch 2. Jam the crack until its possible to traverse left to the

American Spirit

crack, and finish on that route.

Pitch 3. Do the second pitch of

American Spirit

.'

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Smoking Section