RIDE THE MOHAWK. 

  This routes climbs the dike / Mohawk through the large roof on great holds / jugs the whole way up.  There is a dirty start but cleans up quickly on quality rock the rest of the way up.

Madam Mohawk

Ishmael

Forbidden Colors

Sneaky Baboon

The Howler

Connfounded

Black Elk Speaks

Gibbon Take

Must have earnest desire to ascend this climb.  

  A fun two pitch, trad challenge neighboring sport climbs. First pitch was onsighted ground-up. Ran out of time to do the second that day, so I came back months later and rapped it because of impatience. 

  1) 5.12- 70'   Climbs crack on the SW face, 20' right of Gibbon Take. Punchy in a couple spots, especially right at the end. Belay on nice ledge at two bolts. 

  2) 5.11 70'   Continue to the next crack cruising through mellow 5.9 climbing to a short crux protected by a bolt. Build an anchor on big ledge.

Once the cover of Climbing Magazine, this thing is the best hard sport route in all of Rushmore, or the Hills?? Beautiful tall arete with sharp water streak. Sustained 5.12+ crimper moves the whole way to a redpoint crux at the top. Given the short and flat hike this classic deserves more attention!

This trickster begins stemming in between the two baboon formations. Then establish on the Big Baboon when holds appear. Swing from bolt to bolt through steep and sustained terrain. Finishes on a big ledge just below the true summit.

Beautiful plumb line with many pinches and sidepulls. Great warm-up for the area! Dirty, easy start to the first bolt at 20'.

A nice mixed line in this sport area to mix it up. Begins with a somewhat bouldery start to reach the horizontal where you can place your first piece. Follow crack up right over bulge then jog left on good holds for two bolts. Continue up plumb crack with excellent gear. When crack fades clip bolt and step right onto slab then back left to gain two more bolts. Easy run to the anchors.

Begin the same as Forbidden Colors, but continue up flake system towards the next black streak on an arête. Difficult opening moves leads to a thin crux then balancy laybacking on the arête. A much easier version of Forbidden Colors...excellent moves, excellent rock, and very unrelenting! Bring a #4 camalot for in between the second bolt of Forbidden and the first bolt of Black Elk.

Nice aesthetic route that starts up a black streak, where you'll encounter the first crux. Then finish up the arete where another delicate crux lies.

This area is right off the trail and mainly consists of Piana classics.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Right of Passage