Much like a Chameleon, this route changes it's colors. This is possibly the best route at Lizard Tail, it's a fantastic climb with incredible positioning at a moderate grade. The climb is comprised into two separate sections.The first is a slabby sport climb while the second half is pure sedona trad route. There's handjams, crimpers, roofs, slabs, jugs, smears, and a secure layback. This climb may only be roughly 80 feet long, but it feels much longer. I'd recommend this route to any moderate leader, the gear is solid and the exposure is awesome.  

Karma Chameleon

Saltwater Kroc

Rango

Lizard Tail Spire - Easy Route

King Gizzard And The Lizard Wizard

Hippie Gecko

Xenomorph

An uncleaned squeeze chimney that has some fun moves on suspect rock. The top section after the squeeze chimney has some seriously loose rock. Best set up as a toprope. 

Rango is located on the North side of Lizard Tail Spire and ascends the obvious splitter. Unlike other climbs on Lizard Tail this climb rarely see's sun. The climb starts on a fun but short face leading to big ledge. Climb through some easy 5.6 territory to get to the good stuff. The next portion is super rad, as you climb through an overhung .75 splitter. Finally, cruise up to a height dependent crux. This will either feel 5.8 or 5.10 if you can't find the hidden face hold out right. Depending on your reach clipping the chains will be the crux, fortunately there’s great gear through this last stretch. Overall this an awesome addition to Lizard Tail. 

This little spire makes for a fun adventure for a new trad leader or someone just getting into climbing. This might be one of the most accessible spires in Sedona. A couple of easy moves gets you a bit of exposure and a fun little summit. Look for a single bolt on the west side to protect the opening move that mantles a very fractured limestone shelf. I try not to step on the shelf at all just in case. After making the easy mantle, work your way up to the larger limestone band, then head up and right via exposed (but easy) climbing to a mushroom like summit. There are belay/rap chains on the highest point. 

Arguably the most unique climb at Lizard tail and the Fun Ship area, King Gizzard is comprised of some funky climbing with two distinct cruxes. The first crux is pushing over the bulgy overhang on incut crimps, crafty crack climbing skills to the left can make these moves feel a bit more mellow. Weave left and right taking the path of least resistance to the final crux. The last moves involve some gymnastics style stretching, depending on your weakness this could be considered the hardest moves on the route.Funky, exposed and occasionally awkward, this route will test any 5.10 leaders in unexpected ways. 

Hippie Gecko ascends the slabby face below and just through the limestone band. The climbing is cruiser 5.7 to the band, followed by a few desperate 5.10 moves. This climb will test your commitment on slabby smears through a rounded bulge. 

The most eye catching route at Lizard Tail, Xenomorph is a great splitter. The majority of the route is cruiser 5.7/5.8. Hand jam, ringlock, finger jam and stem your way up to a exposed crux. When the crack starts to get a bit dirty near the top, move left and clip two bolts joining the hivemind atop the limestone band. 

The little spire is just north of Chimney Rock in West Sedona/Capitol Butte (aka Thunder Mt.) area.Have you sent all the routes at the Fun Ship and need a new challenge? Check out the mixed bolted/trad routes at Lizard Tail. Note that only the front spire is "Lizard Tail Spire". The taller spires behind it have been referred to as Bart and Lisa. See pic taken from the east and you'll see why. There is a ton of potential routes up to and around these spires ranging from 5.8 to 5.11 (or higher). The rock quality varies from dirty/loose/flakey/rotten to bullet hard/clean. Stay tuned, more routes coming in this area. Send an e-mail via MP to me (John Knight) if you'd like to help out. Happy Climbing! 

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Routes in Lizard Tail Spire