A quality (for the VOG) line that tackles the center of the south face and provides a free option on this nice tower with better rock and climbing that the original route (IMO). It was established OS and ground-up, with no bolts placed, for the FFA of the tower and the 7th overall ascent (if the register is accurate) in 15 years.

P1--Start in the center of the south face, up a moderate fist crack in a 15' step of blocky rock (the only loose band encountered) to a ledge below an obvious right-facing dihedral. Stem between twin finger/thin hand cracks to a loose shelf and launch into the corner proper. It starts fat fingers, and quickly widens to thin hands as it arcs steeply before entering a wide pod. The pod was home to a bunch of choss that was trundled, but it is surely still a bit grungy. Exit the pod with steep, burly thin hands to a large belay ledge. A predominantly clean pitch with great, varied crack climbing. Set a gear belay on the wall above the ledge with finger-hand sized gear. 5.10, 100'

P2--Tackle the striking hand to chimney system splitting the face above the large ledge. Start up a shallow, right-facing dihedral with thin hands and fingers to a stance and an awkward fist crack above into the upper chimney. This corner holds good rock, but is unfortunately very silty as the chimney above funnels dirt down it. The chimney starts a bit silty, but quickly gets much cleaner. Pass a shelf and some large chockstones (take care, the upper one wiggles disconcertingly but we couldn't free it) and squeeze up the narrowing chimney with fortuitous edges on the right arete to facilitate progress through this strenuous bit. The chimney pinches down into the crux OW that curves left and offers burly arm-barring and thigh jamming to the belay ledge. A physical, blue-collar pitch! Belay off of .75-#3 sized gear. 5.10+, 115'

P3--You could finish up the final pitch of the OG South Face route, which rises directly above the belay. We found this finish crunchy and unpleasantly awkward when we did it on our ascent of the South Face route, so instead we squeezed through a narrow slot/window piercing the tower at this belay and climbed the analog (north side) crack to the OG finish. This starts with a leaning fist crack up to a beached whale maneuver to surmount a block (a bit of a thrutch). Surmount a small bulge with a good handcrack leading to a final easy chimney to the summit. We felt this offered a much more enjoyable summit pitch with pretty good rock. 5.9+, 45'

Tommy Knocker--Tomfoolery

The Reach Around- Tommy Knocker to Tom-Tom Variation

Tommy Knocker- South Face

Tom-Tom Tower- North Face

Climb up Tommy Knocker via the South Face route rappel back to the  saddle and the base of the bolt ladder (pitch 3).

1st Pitch of variation: 30ft Climb the wide crack off the saddle to a higher ledge. Build a belay here. 5.10

2nd Pitch of variation: 35m Traverse on ledge on the north side of tower via 4th class terrain,very loose (some small gear is possible) into the large chimney and the base of the last pitch of Tom-Tom.

Finish by climbing the last pitch of Tom-Tom.

Descent: same as for Tom-Tom.

Pitch 1: 40m Begin on the towers south face. Climb up and right on loose rock, then up 5.9 left-facing corner. Continue angling right to a large ledge. Traverse right and build a belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 2: 25m Climb up 5.9 left-facing dihedral on excellent finger jams. Pull over short rotten section and move right and build a belay below a wide crack at the saddle between Tom-Tom and Tommy Knocker.

Pitch 3: 20m Follow 4 bolt ladder with a few placements in between to a few free moves and a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the bedding seam.

Pitch 4: 29m Walk right along bedding seam and climb first groove to a 5.10 off-width to the summit. Belay off fixed anchor.

Descent: Two double rope raps. Rappel to the top of pitch 1 then to the ground.

Pitch 1: 75ft Climb up and right on loose and crumbling rock. Continue up to a ledge at the base of the main chimney system to a single fixed pin.

Pitch 2: 75ft Use arm bars and jams for the first bit till you can get inside the chimney. Most climbers will have a hard time fitting in the crack with gear on due to the narrowness of the chimney. Continue up the inside of the chiney to a bulge that will force you to the lip of the crack. Once over bulge place the only protection of the lead. Continue up tight chimney to easy walking section, which leads deeper into the tower. Climbe to the large chock stone and a belay platform with two fixed pins.

Pitch 3: 75ft Take the right hand crack of the belay ledge and chimney behind large blocks. The chimney narrows and becomes smooth climb up to chock stone in back of crack, which provides the only protection for the lead. Continue climbing up and outwards to a belay platform. Place a large unit at the chimney exit and traverse 25ft left on the platform to a fixed pin and stopper anchor.

Pitch 4: 125ft Climb a large chimney to a crack on the left hand wall directly below a large chock stone. Climb this crack and pull around chock stone and continue thru easy terrain to the summit terrace where you will see a large sling block.

Pitch 5: 15ft Easy climbing to summit.

Descent: Rappel the route, 1st double rope rap from large slung block on the summit to fixed pin and stopper on top of pitch 3. From here you can double rope rappel all the way to the ground but it is recommended that you stop on the top of pitch 1. (We rapped all the way to the ground and got the ropes stuck on top of pitch 1 and was forced to relead it).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tom-Tom Tower Area