Climb past steep pockets and face moves to an anchor

Hobbit's Pockets

Hippos on Ice

Happy Meal

The Blade

Vomit Launch

Armageddon

Deep Impact

Bloodshot

Cocaine Crack

Powder Up the Nose

Thieves

Shake 'n Flake

Freebase

Crack Cocaine

Chicken McNuggets

Exile On Main Street

Bongo Fury

Bound in Bogata

Quest to Fire

Skeleton Surfer

[Redacted]

This route will never get popular. The moves are forgettable pockets and nubbins on less than stellar rock with some distance between bolts. If you climb at the grade, your probably somewhere else.

This technical knob climb is a fun new addition to the Right Cocaine Wall. Start with a large side pull/under cling feature and traverse left on small holds. The middle section is lower angle but still tricky, and the finish is steeper with fun holds. Some of the holds are improbable on this climb, but because it climbs through a water streak it is already solid.  

  From the anchor it is easy to swing right and set up the original Cocaine high line or set a TR on the Blade/Time's Up.

Spectacular position and excellent climbing. This is the top portion of the seldom done route ?Slit Your Wrists? (5.13b). Start on top of Skeleton Surfer. Stick clip the first bolt! Reach blindly out onto the face to find a great pocket, step across. Begin a series of funky arete moves for the first crux; considered somewhat beta-intensive. Highstep your way through the next crux and clip the anchors.

A classic 5.11 pump-a-thon.  A stick-clip is often used to clip the first bolt to protect the insecure and overhanging first moves.  The climbing is steep and consistent with a crux coming in the middle, but the pump will send many climbers for a ride near the top. 

  Vomit Launch is just to the left of the Cocaine Crack on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully, and starts under the small roof.

A diverse route that starts with a hard boulder sequence (crux) on edges, and finishes on knobs, pockets and arete moves.

A diverse route that starts with left leaning layback moves (crux) and then moves right and finishes with pocket, edge and arete moves.  This route is not in the 1992 Watt's guide.

A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character.  You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.   For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens.  Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best.

Head up the same start as Chicken McNuggets, clip one bolt and head into the crack. Plentiful but often gritty pro, but the climbing is secure and pleasant. Crux comes when you switch cracks.

Just uphill from Freebase, this route is great fun on little pinchers.  If you enjoyed Chicken McNuggets, you'll enjoy this one.  It's a nice test of strategic resting - bad rhythm will get you all pumped out.     Expect it to be pleasantly stiff for the grade.

This route acts more like a highball boulder problem than a sport route. Start up the dihedral and move right into the overhang of three finger pockets and jugs. After your second clip, start moving up through the crimpy crux. The route cruises after the fourth bolt. powerful but no real endurance needed for this quick tick.

Start up a large left-facing flake. A thin crux sequence comes early on. After a quick shake at a flat jug, more thin edges and sloping pockets lead to the top. Short, but solid and worthwhile.

A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent climbing. After a mid height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps.  The good climbing seems to go on forever!

An awkward layback (?) move above a big hueco leads to a jug, and then to the most painful, thin, flaring hand crack you've ever climbed. Maybe once was climbed on gear, but now it's fully bolted. The climbing eases off substantially after the 5.11 crux. The anchor is awkward to clip involving one last annoyingly difficult move to clip the carabiner. It's possible to hang a draw on the steely from beneath, although if you're a purist, you may not... Then again, if you're a purist you probably didn't clip the bolts either :) This is one difficult climb. If anyone has any more information on this route, please share!

This is a fun route with cool exposure and consistently fun climbing.  It starts with a rather steep boulder problem (a stick clip makes it seem much less difficult) and then goes straight up a slightly slabby face with lots of nubbins. If you like Smith Rock nubbin climbing, you will love this route. 

  This is the farthest right route on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully.

This secluded route must be one of the best of the many neglected routes in Smith's "Main Area".  Located high on the Morning Glory Wall, above such crowded lines as Magic Light and Overboard, few Smith regulars are even aware of the route's existence, and even fewer have set eyes on this line's beautiful stone, despite the fact that its visible from the River Trail. 

  The climb is actually approached via Cocaine Gully.  Head toward the "Crack Babies" area on the west wall of the gulley.  About 40 feet down-canyon from Crack Babies, locate a black, moss-covered slab.  Leave the packs here and only bring the essentials up the slab.  A short boulder problem (do-able in tennies) gains the slab.  Wander up 20 feet, then follow an obvious trail another 30 feet south, then west around the corner to an extremely exposed ledge (use caution!).  Traverse the ledge 5 feet west to a two bolt anchor below the "Rolling Stones Wall", a 30 foot wide, 60 foot tall wall of beautiful pink tuff.  The bolts at this anchor are a bit sketchy, so you may want a few 1-3" pieces to backup the belay.  'Exile...' is the left route on the wall.   

  Begin gingerly above a narrow ledge, on relatively easy moves to the first bolt.  The exposure may make this feel a bit harder than it actually is.  Climb with increasing difficulty to the 2nd bolt and a decent clipping stance.  A few rest jugs lead off to the right, but you will eventually need to traverse back left to the crux and the third bolt.  Several more bolts lead up on increasingly easing terrain to the top of the wall, where the angle kicks back and the pink stone disappears.  10 more feet of slabbin lead to the 2-bolt anchor.

The opening 6 bolts of Bongo Fury is reminiscent of Churning in the Wake with long athletic moves between positive pockets.  Move quickly through this section or you will get very pumped due to the overhanging nature of the climb.  For the beginning section if you find yourself making a move off of anything that is worse than a perfect sinker two finger pocket you have probably biffed the sequence.  At the sixth bolt position yourself to do the "frizmo," (whatever that is) or maybe just move dynamically to a big jug?  The route is roughly 12c to that point. 

  Rest at the big jug before you launch in to a bewildering array of slab and bulge moves.  The finish of this route climbs more like a route from the gorge rather than the tuff.  The hardest moves travel through technical sidepulls between the 8th and 9th bolt.  You'll be rewarded with a jug rest at the 9th bolt.  The rest of the moves are not trivial so shake out before you try to decipher the next bulge.  Several sequences can get you through this section, but anyway you move you'll end up using a 1.5 pad mono.  The moves remain tricky all the way to the chains.  The slab is very unique and anything but tedious.  Take the time to work the moves on the slab and you will be rewarded. 

  This is a great route to do if you like good movement and solitude.  The rock quality is amazingly good.

This is a short one-move wonder route with a sharp, crimp sequence for the "wonder" part. Mantle onto a ledge and then tackle the tweaky crux above the second bolt. After this, it's easy to the anchors. Rated 11a in the 1992 Watt's guide, the single hard sequence perhaps lost a hold and increased the grade. Only one hard sequence, but more sustained than the .11’s uphill.

Start up a ramp just left of the bolt line.  Blindly reach right around a bulge to clip the first bolt.  Then make your way through several more feet of slab.  As the wall turns vertical, fish hook a right hand mono pocket and clip the third draw.  At this point the route turns slightly overhanging as you are forced to make balancy lieback moves.  The occasional pocket provides areas to shake out before you encounter the final crux bulge. 

  At the crux bulge establish yourself on bad underclings and do your best to find something to grab amidst the chalkless lichen covered rock.  There is a sinker two finger pocket somewhere up there.  Good luck finding it.  You will need to call upon your power, technical footwork and craftiness to avoid whipping here.  Aim for a clipping jug several feet up and left of the anchors. 

  This route is worth doing and the rock is decent.  The difficulty is comparable to Crack Babies, though much more technically demanding. 

If you want to climb this at the grade then you'll simply haul yourself up to the first bolt and start fro there. If you want to turn it into a 12a then start from the base. The 12a move is easier if you have long arms. Super reachy. The route is so juggy, you'll forget that your even at smith. This route recieves little attention but I can't seem to figure out why. Great moves with a cool foot cutting crux up top. This and the Blade make a great combo. If joining the two routes, I reccommend Top roping Skeleton surfer and then leading The Blade to avoid rope drag.

Quite different from the usual 12b at Smith. A powerful, overhanging, bouldery line. Begin up a short series of crimps and underclings to two good incut pockets. A powerful lockoff and pinch right where the overhangs characterizes the crux. An easy mantel follows. This is a very onsightable Smith 12b.

The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right.  The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully