The crux is finding which of the pocketed pinches work and setting you feet up for the through to the lip where you catch a nice left hand scab/edge and top out with a casual and featured mantle.

Route history:

This problem was established in the early 1990s, when I had first sent it, though I certainly did not have the FA. It was originally graded V8 when featured in a

Rock and Ice

mini-guide for

Unaweep Bouldering

by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang.

Pinch Roof aka Pyscho Boy

Historic Smalls

Accuracy Counts

Snafu

Start in the middle of the Brain Boulder with hands on a small ledge and really poor feet. Dyno to the good ledge. Top out. It is just kind of fun.

Sit start with a left hand edge and a right hand knob. From there, climb up through the generous edges to reach an easy finish.

Sit start with a left hand edge and a right hand pinch. From there, reach an edge, match on it, switch the feet to the far side until gaining a heel hook, make a big pull to a right hand pocket, and finish up the remaining jugs to reach an easy mantel.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dr. Seuss aka Brain Boulder