This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

http://nococlimbing.org/portfolio/arthurs-rock-bouldering-guide/

P1 (5.7). After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a short crack/groove feature leading to the first bolt. Climb this groove using a slung flake for protection, continue past two bolts (P1 crux) before moving up and left on low-angle terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

P2 (5.9). Climb up a small ramp, and clip the first bolt. Make a big move back left to a jug (P2 crux) before manteling into an easy crack feature. Continue following the crack feature as it traverses left until it ends at a steep bulge. Pull over this bulge to reach the 2nd pitch anchor.

Descent: perform two 20m rappels to reach the Arthur's Rock Trail, or use the walkoff trail to reach the base of the climb.

Right of Passage

Blackish Blobs

Goldeneye

Corridor Project

Mono Matt

Intestinal Fortitude

Excellent Adventure

Rocksie Rocks

Kiddy Pool

The Great Variant

Front Gate

Sunday Morning Coming Down

Sunrise

Water Fountain

Doom Corner

Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack)

The Great Corner

Big, Bad Book

Owl Roof

Edge Of Time

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

To reach the belay, climb the first pitch of

Right of Passage

or

Front Gate

. Start by climbing a shallow, left-facing corner to a small roof. A technical crux after an obvious jug leads to the anchor.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

Another fun entry level sport climb, it starts with a short, right-facing corner (crux) then continues up the pillar between two black grooves. This route is easily set as a toprope by walking around left to the top of the climb.

It has interesting and fun moderate climbing on knobs. Some people describe this route as a "giggler".

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2014).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This is a tricky, little, short sport route with good rock and interesting movement. The crux comes right off the bat above the first bolt using opposing sidepull features. The next two bolts involve technical climbing on good edges to an easy slab.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This is an atypical route for Arthur's with steep, powerful climbing on generally amazing rock (especially for Arthur's). Start with a very hard move right off the ground followed by taxing climbing to the 2nd bolt. Catch a horrible rest here, and launch straight into the V9/10 crux getting into a flared finger jam. More punchy climbing leads to a heart breaker move before the anchor.

This is a fun, little toprope just left of

Kiddy Pool

following vertical ripple and going over little bulge right of boulder leaning against the wall. Build an anchor using a block atop the ledge. There is increasing difficulty with every move.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2014). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

Start in a short, left-facing corner about 30 feet left of

The Great Corner

. Climb two bolts up the corner to a 30 foot traverse moving right along a slopy ledge with non-existent hand holds. After the traverse, climb up the left-leaning seam until you can switch to the easier crack on the left.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This route climbs the undulating orange and green face between

Doom Corner

and

The Great Corner

. Start up an easy slab into technical terrain and the crux around bolts 4 and 5. Climb a short, right-facing corner that pulls a small roof, then continue up moderate but heads-up terrain to the anchor. A 70m ROPE is MANDATORY TO LOWER.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This fun, entry level sport climb is located at the foot of the Main South Face. Climb jugs and layback features on perfect rock to a reachy section right before the chains. This route can be set as a toprope by climbing up the access chimney, then traversing the East Side Ledge to the anchor.

The Great Variant is the obvious variation to climbing pitch 1 of

The Great Corner

. The rock is much better and the climbing is generally more appealing than the back shredding off-widths of the

The Great Corner

.

Start about 10 feet right of

The Great Corner

, and climb the featured crack system to a short bulge. Place a hand-sized cam, and move up and right through a juggy traverse to a stance at a short, left-facing corner. (DO NOT CLIP THE OLD PIN HERE. It's very sketchy and will be removed ASAP.) Continue climbing fun overlaps and face holds to the pitch 1 anchor on

The Great Corner

.

Descent: a 60m rope will get you down from the

The Great Corner

P1 anchor.

After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a large boulder below a short, left-facing corner/groove. Climb this groove directly to the

Right of Passage

belay, or cut up and left on slabby terrain to reach the

Edge of Time

/

Intestinal Fortitude

anchor.

Descent: rappel approximately 20m from either anchor back to the East Side Ledge or the ground.

This is a marginal, long, single pitch route to the east of '

Right of Passage

' following discontinuous crack systems. There are plenty of places for gear along low angle climbing. Save some hand-size gear for the belay at the top.

This moderate trad climb tackles a long groove/chimney feature near the eastern toe of the South Face. This route can be broken up into a couple short pitches or done as one long pitch (recommended).

This is a fun top rope between

Goldeneye

and

Kiddy Pool

. It climbs the obvious black streak which can be seeping after melt or rain.

The climbing is really fun on water polished edges and knobs. It is probably best left as a TR, since lead climbing would involve managing a possible fall into the rock that leans against the route.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This great mixed climb follows the obvious dihedral between

Big, Bad Book

and

Rocksie Rocks

. Start up the right-facing corner by placing a #4 and #3.5 Camalot and moving into the continuous stemming positions. At the top of the corner, a bouldery sequence (crux) leads over a short bulge to a rest before the final bulge. Clip the final bolt after a big move to reach the upper slab and the anchor.

Pitch 1 (5.5): start between "

Rights of Passage

" and "

Sunday Morning Coming Down

". Scramble up to a wide, shallow chimney containing a face. After exiting the chimney, belay on ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.6): slightly to the right, continue up a hand crack until you reach another large ledge below the headwall. Go 30 feet left to the chain anchors, and finish on your choice of bolted routes.

The Great Corner is the large, right-facing corner/chimney system up the South Face of Arthur's Rock.

Pitch 1: climb the wide crack/runnel system up and left to where it widens to a chimney. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor (1/2"x3" SS 5-piece anchor installed on 3/30/14) at the first obvious ledge/break.

Pitch 2: climb a tricky wide crack to easier terrain to the top.

Descent: most parties will lower from the P1 anchor (60m rope required). From the summit/end of P2, use the standard walk-off or use the

Right of Passage

rappels.

This route has obviously been done many times before, but the NCCC could never find any detailed info on it. If you know any history or have climbed the route before, please chime in.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This is a daunting, two pitch climb right up the heart of the South Face of Arthurs Rock.

P1: (5.11b) Climb a broken crack system to gain the bottom of a pillar and the first bolt. Continue up the pillar until you reach a left-leaning crack/corner. Continue up the crack placing a #4 Camalot before launching into the bolt protected crux. A short handcrack leads to the anchor from there.

P2: (5.11) Traverse left from the belay and pull the short, roof crack feature. Over the roof, continue moving up and right, following the crack feature to reach the summit.

History

Referred to as the "Old Aid Route" by some people, it was rumored that this was a Mark Wilford route, but it was never confirmed. Apparently a climber named Rob Upton died on this route years ago. There is a plaque on a large boulder near the base of the climb dedicated to him. If you have any other info, please chime in.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2015). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

Start by conquering the steep bulge/roof at the first bolt. Reach off the kick-wall to a series of good knobs at the lip before swinging your feet around and manteling onto the slab.

From the slab, engage the business of the route through 4 bolts of solid 5.12 climbing. Sidepulls, knobs, laybacking, and technical foot work are mandatory for this section.

Catch a rest before the namesake roof, then perform a few big moves to a heart breaker mantle/lip encounter. Climb easy slab to the chains.

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

To reach the belay, climb the first pitch of

Right of Passage

or

Front Gate

. From the anchor, climb up and left on good edges, crimps and sidepulls. Climb a short slab to the final headwall/arête. The last move before the anchor is the crux of the entire route. This tricky/reachy move can be aided through, giving the route a (5.11a A0) rating.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock