A Big Tease

Mr. Scruff

A Little Tease

Sweet as Hank

Hanky Panky

Teasing Hank

Hank Collins Memorial Route

Animal Magnetism

The Hank Spire

Entry Fee

Tommy TwoTone

All Dogs Go To Heaven

The Good Die Young

Teasing Hank is link-up of the first 10 bolts of A Big Tease into the last 4 bolts of the Hank Collins Memorial Route. Start as for A Big Tease working up the moderate face to the bottom of the crack. Enter into the crack of good holds and finger locks, clip the long fixed draw, and make the committing run to the jug over the roof. After clipping the second fixed draw, follow the diagonal traverse left to a good rest at bolt 10. (Extending this draw and the first you come to as you traverse left from here into the other route is very helpful.)After clipping bolt 10 on A Big Tease, move left then up clipping the last 4 bolts and anchors of the Hank Collins Memorial Route. Expect more committing climbing, generous bolt spacing, and a few cruxy moves moving past the last bolt.

Crimpy Crimpy hard climbing to the fifth bolt. The fight is still on the rest of the way to the top. Stay on the desert polish face at the 7th and 8th. Going out right is not the vision. Holds get big at roof for a good shake then punch it to the top.

Hanky Panky is a good project for the aspiring 5.11 climber. It has easy access from the 5.10's to the left of it for top-roping. This bouldery route offers a better pump than its neighboring route. Its hard to distinguish the crux through the sustained movement on Hanky Panky. Although its short, it is still a climb worth doing for the good movement and good rock quality.

The Hank Collins Memorial Route rides straight up the most eye-catching feature on the wall. The beginning of the route starts on grey rock that is deceivingly solid. Big moves off small crimps lead to a prominent S-shaped dihedral followed by a scooping roof. Here is where the wall begins to be smooth as marble in most places. Work your way through the fun and cruiser moves of the dihedral and begin the 2 crux's, one after the other! Powerful moves and steep terrain lead to a technical slab crux. Although the roof and following slab moves are the hardest individual moves on the route, don't let your guard down on the imposing headwall. Spaced bolts and big moves make this an all around demanding line to the anchors: powerful, technical, and sporty!

One of the steeper routes at Smith begins with the same start as Sweet as Hank,  climbing up the near vertical slab to the base of the overhang. Go clip the last bolt on the slab on the right and begin up good holds on the steep overhang. This short overhang serves a quick pump and one of the most heartbreaking finishes in the park. You can almost smell the steel of the chains at the final crux!

Tommy TwoTone is the 100' alternate direct line located within A Big Tease on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall. Although sharing the first 7 bolts and last 3 bolts of A Big Tease, while climbing, this route proves to be a completely different animal all together. Not only are you tasked to climb the crux of A Big Tease, you are also required to pull a harder crux resting just below on the 3 bolt section of this route. These two sections stacked on top of one another definitely up's the ante, and the grade...

 Start out climbing A Big Tease up to perma-bolt 7. After resting at the sofa jug, continue straight up from there. Clip bolt 8 and set up for the crux of the route; some trickery required. Once through the lower crux, it's hard reachy 5.11 face climbing up to what is now the redpoint crux of the route (A Big Tease crux). After you clear this section and clip bolt 11, climb the arete of good holds up to the ledge system above. Ride the continuing finger crack up clipping bolts 12 and 13 leading to fixed steel anchors.

 Hate to contrive, but using the arete through the 3 bolt section knocks the grade down a letter or two. 

The alternate line is bolted with black metolius hangers. 

9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors

 Tom Egan is the original badass who installed the anchors that are currently sitting atop this huge monolith. Put up in the early 90's, a top rope was left up for a couple of years, but no developing was done until more than twenty years later. Seeing as how he had so many different developing projects going on at that time, it's easy to understand why Tom never laid hammer to stone on this piece of rock. Tom's notable contributions to the park form a pretty long list. Liquid Jade, Blue Light Special, Child Abuse (Catalyst), a lot of the Upper Gorge, Cajun Corner, A Little Seduction, The Product. And the list goes on... Not only one of the most influential people i've met at Smith so far, he's also one of the nicest and most inspiring as well. These two routes are for you Tom!

All Dogs go to Heaven is located to the left of The Hank Collins Memorial Route on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall. This route climbs from almost ground floor all the way to the second pitch anchors of The Hank Spire. An 80m rope is required to ascend and safely lower to the ground!

 Start out on good holds up to the first bolt. After clipping the second bolt, the route is pretty much on. Follow a meandering path up working far left then back right and up. Powerful yet technical climbing up to bolt 5 leads to the lower crux on the face. Clear the hard face and bust right through the obvious weakness in the rock. Follow the good holds up into the dihedral and work onto the ledge arriving at the anchor station for The Hank Spire. From here, start to work up the easy terrain through the traverse. After traversing left, work right and up through the overhanging sections above. Clear the three pumpy sections of climbing and arrive at the anchors of All Dogs go to Heaven.

Start off by climbing in a short dihedral to the first bolt. Then climb the juggy overhanging flake to find yourself under the crimpy crux. The crux features 10 ft of 5/5 star climbing but the short nature of the climb takes away from the overall aesthetics of the climb. Definitely a worthwhile climb.

The Hank Collins Memorial Wall is located to the right side base of The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This 160' free standing monolith holds some of the newest moderate to harder lines here at Smith. A once undeveloped diamond in the rough, the lines that have been revealed on this wall are sure to please any crowd. A distinct roof feature located in the center of the wall and a smooth marble-like texture of the rock adds an unique quality to the style of climbing on the Hank Wall.

Description

Routes in The Hank Collins Memorial Wall