Spectacular face climb on good quality rock. Get your mental game on, as most of this climb is very friction-dependent. The bolts are spaced quite far apart, with some insecure moves in some places. Make sure you are confident at the grade. That being said, this is a great sport climb, and one that should not be missed. Above the first bolt, the climbing is PG13. Getting to the first bolt is a bit headier, as it is very high off the ground. A stick clip may not even reach!

Surf Music

The Dollop

Owl Be All Right

Getting Hard

Neutrino Trap

When worse comes to worst

Disco Inferno

Unknown Big Chimney

Loco Motive

The Contrarian

Swill

Getting Warm

Union Atlantic

Confederate Pacific

Soak on Saturday

Druce Crack

Disneyesque

Stink Bug

Poke on Sunday

On the face between Disneyesque and the left facing large corner are a couple of cracks and very shallow corners/flakes that lead up and slightly to the right to join the big corner. The rock is loose but the climbing relatively safe. I did not find the anchor to this one and it appears that you could break left to reach the anchors of Disneyesque towards the top. I did not, until I had passed the anchors about 6-7 feet to my left and climbed harder territory, past an overhang and some blocks. Beware.

Climb dihedral to pedestal, following bolts moving up and  left to off width, hand crack and face above.  

Straightforward face climbing past horizontal cracks.

Climb the face and crack up over a small bulge then head up to the bolted anchor.

Bolted seam that is somewhat fractured but solid

Start on top of a detached flake and climb up the south facing wall and arete on right. Fun route pulling on edges and pockets with an occasional pull on the arete.

Scary looking chimney. I wounder what the pro would be like. I bet there are cracks on the inside walls.

Start at a thin crack up to a horizontal to clip the first bolt. Continue up sustained and difficult thin edge climbing past more bolts to the anchors.

Clip first bolt of" getting warm" and move right following bolt line.  Optional 1" piece at diagonal crack traverse of ledge up high

Boulder problem of the deck to clip first bolt.

Climb the face clippin bolts to the anchor.

THis is the obvious crack in the middle of the left most wall with routes on it at Rainbow. Climb the crack to a bolted anchor.

Follow bolts through a cruxy roof and then, if you brought gear, continue past the midway anchor using a thin crack and ramp to get established in the fingers and wider just above. Easy to the anchors after that.

Climb the splitter up the center of the face, passing a wide section and a small roof.

Thin to hands crack leads up to off-width climbing. About half way up, the crack turns 90 degrees to the right for 5-6 feet and eventually turns sharply upward again never leaving off-width size. Fun and interesting moves.

Climb up a flake, clipping a bolt, and heading for a hand crack that leads to more bolts with occasional gear placements to supplement bolts as needed. Fun route.

To the left of the obvious crack of Disneyesque, is another crack and shallow corner that leads up to more cracks and shallow corners. Great variety of movement on this fun route.

Sandy Cove Area. The leftmost wall in Rainbow Canyon. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. Sandy Cove Area